5.0 out of 5 stars Aftermarket oil cooler for a 2014 Jeep Wrangler 3.6.

T. · May 30, 2025

(function() { P.when('cr-A', 'ready').execute(function(A) { if(typeof A.toggleExpanderAriaLabel === 'function') { A.toggleExpanderAriaLabel('review_text_read_more', 'Read more of this review', 'Read less of this review'); } }); })(); .review-text-read-more-expander:focus-visible { outline: 2px solid #2162a1; outline-offset: 2px; border-radius: 5px; } The oil cooler is a known weak spot. You should, depending on mileage or age, replace both sensors on the housing. It has a coolant/oil temp switch on some models and an oil pressure sensor on all. It’s not easy to replace as it is under the intake plenums, you have two. Clean everything nicely and do not use sandpaper or a 90° angle grinder on it. I suggest swapping out your valve cover, gaskets depending on mileage while you’re in there. It is not easy. I have been a mechanic for over 20 years. It’s not that difficult either. It’s just time consuming. Take your time. Make sure you clean everything and when you get it together, you can run an oil pressure building procedure. The way you do this is you put your gas pedal all the way down to the floor and then proceed to start your jeep. The jeep will not start the 3.6 and 3.8 motors will not fire up if the gas pedal is depressed all the way. This will allow the engine to build oil pressure turn the key and attempt to start the car with the gas pedal down for 3 to 5 seconds then you have to turn the key all the way off because the Jeep will attempt to start itself. After you do this one or two times I suggest three times for 3 to 5 seconds each. Then pull your foot off of the gas pedal and start the vehicle.Do not use angle grinders, or anything on the gaskets in the valley you will destroy the block. When you’re cleaning up the intake gasket, use a plastic scraper or a gasket, scraper and brake cleaner or a solvent to clean the gasket material off of the intake. Do not damage your heads. Make sure you clean out the intake real well because you’re gonna have oil in there. The emissions regulations on these engines do not allow the crank case ventilation to go to the atmosphere. That’s why you will see oil in the system. You need to catch it to do anything about this or attempt to mitigate it. Yes, it looks good and it has a cool orange color and it’s aluminum. I’m not sure how well that is as the factory unit lasted me 11 years and 115,000 miles with very very small leaks. It’s been about five days since I’ve installed this unit and I continue to bleed the coolant and check my oil. When you bleed your coolant, make sure that you open up the valve on the top of the thermostat housing or you will have a heck of a time getting the air out of the system. This is well known for the 3.6. Search YouTube for help. Use 5-w30 oil from here on out. This is why they have rocker issues. If you are in the Midwest or somewhere in the center, you can use 5W-30 if you’re in a call the region you could probably use 5 20 with no issues if you’re in a warmer region adjust accordingly.

5.0 out of 5 stars This Should Have Been The OEM

A. · April 25, 2025

Perfect fit replacement for my 2013 Chrysler 200 V6.Love that this came with all the gaskets and oil filter included, so there isn't anything else you need to buy.If you are doing this, its also a good time to maybe replace your spark plugs (and maybe coils).NOTE: This will require a different oil filter than the one for the 2013 Chrysler 200. There is a little plate on the oil filter cap that has which models are required, but this can be hard to see especially with the engine cover on. If you don't do your own oil changes, you might want to make sure you let the service techs know of this. They make the cap orange to help it stand out.The quality of all the parts is great. No need to try and flatten parts, or get rid of burs. Dropped right in, and included everything you need to do the job.

5.0 out of 5 stars Good buy

J.B. · June 19, 2025

So far so good, tried to buy different brand but backorder was very long. This worked very well so far

5.0 out of 5 stars Aluminum upgrade

P. · May 12, 2025

I think the doorman part was worth the extra $ over the chinesium copies. Especially if you can do the repair yourself. Not especially difficult repair to fix the silly idea of a plastic housing for oil cooler and filter and the only specialty tool you might need is the inverted torx socket but a regular six point will work, I don't remember the size. If you have oil leaking from the valley on one or both sides, pretty good chance your plastic OE cooler has failed.

5.0 out of 5 stars Great product down to the great packaging

S. · January 12, 2025

High quality product from Dorman. Much better than the crappy plastic one from Chrysler. Heck, even the packaging it came in was so nicely done compared to most car parts you buy. Came with all the bolts and seals needed to install. The instructions are good for the removal and install of the item itself. I do want to note a few things though:1) You need thread sealer if you are reusing the old oil pressure (Dorman 926188) and temperature sensors (Dorman 926427. I bought new Dorman ones shown here, which come with sealant already applied to the threads. The old ones aren't easy to get out. If you want to torque the sensors (15ft-lbs), you will need a 27mm deep socket for one of them which is pretty big. The other is smaller.2) Make sure to remove the cap and filter from the old unit before removing or lots of oil will drop out the bottom.3) Have a cheap hand pump from harbor freight ready to suck out all the fluids that drain out the bottom, namely oil. Make recommendation 2 above will help, but I feel there will still be a lot of fluids as it was the Exxon Valdez spill under there.4) Doing an oil change following the install would be a good idea as coolant, oil, and dirt mix together in the engine trough.5) You will drain coolant from the radiator but only about 2/3 of a gallon I bought way more than I needed.6) My van had lots of oil in the upper and lower intakes so I replaced the PCV valve and cleaned all the oil out with engine cleaner (for plastic intakes) and throttle body cleaner (for the throttle body). I also bought an oil seperator to install later when it comes in.7) This is a good time to replace the spark plugs also (NGK 93175, .044 gap, 13 ft-lbs) if over 100k miles.8) It is helpful to have instructions such as Alldata or Chiltons to remove the parts. Some things like disconnecting the fuel pump harness and starting the car to remove fuel pressure before disconnecting the fuel rail is a good idea. You also do not need to remove the electric fan if you just bend back the two front upper intake metal supports with a crow bar. Watch a You tube video.Good luck and thanks Dorman!

Poor quality production line

A. · February 24, 2024

(function() { P.when('cr-A', 'ready').execute(function(A) { if(typeof A.toggleExpanderAriaLabel === 'function') { A.toggleExpanderAriaLabel('review_text_read_more', 'Read more of this review', 'Read less of this review'); } }); })(); .review-text-read-more-expander:focus-visible { outline: 2px solid #2162a1; outline-offset: 2px; border-radius: 5px; } The product is made in Malaysia and is of low quality. Why was it not made clear that it was made in Malaysia? I want American made. In general, the quality is bad. There is no professionalism in the final appearance. Aluminum alloy inserts are not equal and I do not recommend purchasing them.

Alta Calidades

D. · March 29, 2025

De muy alta calidad, bien fabricado y con un kit súper completo, queda perfecto en mi vehículo

Did the job, looks to be good quality

S.M. · February 22, 2025

After smelling a strong odour coming through my heater vents, I initially thought the exhaust was leaking but the pools of oil rapidly forming under the car let me to research leaks on the Grand Caravan, and this became the number one culprit.I watched a bunch of videos online about how to replace this, and as a fairly competent home mechanic with basic level tools I took my time, checked and double checked everything, and had the whole thing done in probably 3-4 hours outdoors on the driveway. It's been a week and no more smells or oil leaks.It's not the cheapest replacement part, but the quality appears to be good, and there is some basic assembly required so make sure you have all the tools before you start.A lb-in torque wrench is a good idea if you want to be precise as well as something like water pump pliers or hoseclip removal pliers. Car trim removal tools proved really useful for loosening old hoses. Also, I'd recommend getting an oil transfer/extractor syringe that will make light work of cleaning out most of the pooled oil that will have collected in the valley between the cylinder banks. Much better than soaking it up with paper towels. In some online guides they will instruct you to remove the fuel hose from the injector manifold - i found it easier and quicker to remove the airbox, leave the fuel rail connected and simply flip the injector manifold over to where the airbox used to be.

So far so good.

M. · October 27, 2024

Installed a few months ago and still no problem. Throw away the plastic OEM junk and replace it with Dorman alloy parts. That's the way to go.

Buen producto

V. · November 28, 2023

Es bueno solo le faltaron considerar en la venta del paquete los sensores