5.0 out of 5 stars Works great.

i. · September 27, 2025

Installed on my Escalade 4 years ago. Still going strong. It’s nice and quiet. No complaints whatsoever.

5.0 out of 5 stars Perfect Fit for my 2005 Chevy Tahoe. Also much more quite than my original compressor!

C.O. · April 27, 2017

Just installed my new Dorman air suspension compressor on my 2005 Chevy Tahoe. I was very pleased to see the service ride control message not display when I started the truck up. I got a little worried after I didn't hear the compressor initially. Normally my old, original compressor with 120k miles, was very audible. I quickly turn my radio off and heard the faint sound of the compressor humming away. I turned the truck off and walked to the back of the truck to check the pressure in the air shock bellow and could definitely feel that it was pressurize, unlike before. So, I jumped back in the truck and started it up again. With my windows rolled down and radio off, I heard the compressor start up and turn off a few seconds later like normal. I'm really impressed with how much more quite the new compressor is. It's a night and day difference from my original unit.If I had to nit pick the replacement unit, I would like to see the wiring harness a little better protected. The main part of the harness, where the wires enter the back of the main plug, had quite a bit of exposed, insulated, wire. I added some of my own abrasion tape since the wiring harness sits right next to the frame when the compressor is mounted. That's really about the only thing that jumped out at me. Everything else was pretty spot on.Installation was super easy. The hardest part, and it's not hard at all, was getting the original remote air inlet filter disconnected from the plastic push pin up near the fuel filler nozzle inlet. Other than that, Make sure you're battery positive terminal is disconnected. Then, start with disconnecting the main wiring harness plug that's on top of the compressor, right against the frame. Then, disconnect the air line by removing the retention clip. Now, just loosen the 2 exposed 13mm bolts closest to the rear body mount and then loosen the 1 13mm bolt located inside the frame about 8-10 inches up from the first 2, you'll need a deep well 13mm socket for this. You don't have to remove the nuts completely. Just loosen up a good amount and then tap the 2 exposed nuts with a hammer to get them to release from the from the frame. Push up on the compressor housing and you'll see how the bolts/nuts are keyed into some slots in the frame. With everything disconnected, you'll be able to lift the compressor up about an inch and pull it away from the frame. Just reverse the steps for the installation of the new unit. I would also suggest you take an air compressor and blow out any debris that might have gotten into the wiring harness plug and maybe add a touch of di-electric grease to the plug to help keep moisture out. This is also a good time to inspect your air shock bellows for cracks or tears along with the air lines. If you're leaking air and causing the compressor to run a lot, you'll be replacing the compressor again sooner than you'd like.As for what cause my specific issue, it was the common C0660 error. Which relates to a malfunction or short circuit of the level control exhaust valve. I did not find any noticeable issues with the wiring on the outside of the exhaust valve. So, i'm guessing the wiring is corroded and/or broken inside the the exhaust valve like a lot of others have experienced. I did do the basic checks of the fuses located on the side of the dash and under the hood. I also tested the ALC relay located near the bottom of under hood fuse box where one of the main wiring harnesses enters the fuse box. All of that checked out good. I also jumped power across the ALC harness plug, 30 to 87, and was able to manually power on the compressor. After doing these basic checks, i knew it was time to get a professional OBD-II scan tool involved to see what the real issue was.Best of luck to any of you who are experiencing issues with your Autoride Suspensions. Take your time and diagnose as much as you can before you start replacing parts. If you're not experienced with or have access to a professional grade OBD-II scan tool, find a recommended mechanic and let them pull the codes and check all the data from the sensors. Even if you have to pay for an hours labor, it's worth it to not just throw money at a potentially easy fix.

5.0 out of 5 stars Tahoe factory rear air shock compressor.

J. · September 13, 2025

My 2013 Tahoe factory airshocks boots started leaking and made the air compressor pump go bad.This is a perfect and easy direct replacement.After installing new shocks, everything works like factory again.

5.0 out of 5 stars Easier than I thought

M.M. · April 5, 2022

Just purchased for my 2013 Tahoe 4-4-22. Original one was really noisy and didn't seem to work well. Thought this was a decent priced alternative and I'm glad I chose this. First off, it took me longer to figure out how to get my spare tire down than installing the compressor. Getting the old one off was easy, just 3 nuts and it comes off. Couple air lines to remove off the shock right there and the hose going up. This one had everything needed and looks to be great quality. No joke about the plug and play, fit perfect and the connector matched up. You do not remove the nuts on the new one, they go in the big holes on the frame and it slides over, then tighten them up. Took me maybe 20 minutes. I started the Tahoe up and got a little scared because I couldn't hear it working. Shut it off and started it and walked back by it this time. Working perfect, just so quiet I couldn't hear it. I just got it installed but unless it stops working, I'm 110% pleased.

4.0 out of 5 stars It was easy to install

E.A. · August 30, 2024

This was installed on my 2003 Yukon Denali It was easy to install it lasted about two years then started coming on & off every 7-10 min had it checked out by a certified technician & it was the compressor the return wasn’t to bad but for lifetime warranty don’t know why I’m still losing 35 from what I paid for it

5.0 out of 5 stars WORKS WELL

M.B. · September 21, 2025

THIS COMPRESSER WORKS WELL ON MY TAHOE 2014....

5.0 out of 5 stars Great Unit! (Included Installation Steps)

M.S. · April 1, 2015

This review might seem long winded, but I’d like to provide some detail to the process I went through updating the rear suspension components on my 2007 Avalanche with some of the pointers I learned through the process that I couldn’t find answers to in other reviews first to aid people in my shoes in the future.I had recently replaced my rear shocks on my 2007 Avalanche LTZ with Air Ride (roughly 140,000 miles on it) with Arnott Industries AS-2708 remanufactured shocks (from OE cores) expecting them to plug in to the existing compressor and wiring with ease, which they did. I noticed the day after replacing the shocks that the right side shock had some exposed piston between the air bladder portion of the shock and the upper mount. I assumed the remanufactured shock could be faulty, and contacted Arnott who suggested that my compressor might not be strong enough to keep the shocks at their specified pressures and levels. The left wasn't exhibiting the behavior because the air line to that shock from the compressor at its light rear mounting location is only 6 inches long opposed to the several feet to the right side. Arnott advised testing my compressor for pressure, noting it should be 135 psi. After calling around town, no local shops or dealers had any way to do so without building an adapter for a pressure gauge. While my original compressor and shocks seemed to function normally, the compressor was pretty loud, and would kick on for 20 seconds every time the truck was started, put in park, or even idling in gear at a light. Loading the bed in November with a load of firewood proved that the original shocks, while able to hold enough pressure to keep the truck level, as well as not throwing any Stabilitrak error codes, obviously couldn't function under load, with the rear dramatically sagging and the compressor running the whole way home, prompting the new shock replacement. I had two choices, remove the new shock, put the original back on temporally, and wait to ship the shock back and get a replacement and go through the process again, with the possibility that it in fact was the compressor and to have gone through that process for nothing, OR try replacing the compressor.I opted to try out the compressor replacement first. Of my options, the Dorman 949-001 seemed like a much simpler repair/replacement than the compressor Arnott offers, as they only provide you the compressor itself, you need to use the used one off of your truck for parts like the mounting tray, air lines, bolts, nuts etc. I was able to do this by myself in my driveway without jacking the truck. The compressor mounts on the frame of the truck right behind the left rear wheel and under the gas filler cap. Job took about 45 minutes. You’ll need a 13 mm socket, an extension, and a flathead screwdriver and needle nose pliers to unclip the power/electronics plug.1. Disconnect the air lines out (the left shock can be disconnected at the shock, the right shock line at the compressor, Dorman includes a new left shock line in the kit), and air intake for the compressor (I just cut mine, there is a plastic bracket that the small air box at the end of the intake hose mounts to up under the fuel filler that I couldn’t get at well, and had my regular mechanic install the new one, took 2 minutes up on the lift, could have done it myself with more time, but I didn’t want to break it)2. Disconnect the power/electronics clip, being careful not to damage the plugs and clips.3. There are three bolts that hold the unit on the frame that all slide into slots cut in the frame are then tightened in place. 13 mm socket. Use an extension. Two of the nuts are exposed with plenty of room to work, the third nut is actually on the inside of the frame rail, accessible through a hole on the inside of the rail (next to the spare tire, need an extension for your socket, but not more than a few inches long, there isn’t much room to work with unless you drop the spare). Remove all three nuts, and with some motivation, the compressor should come loose and slide up and towards the rear of the truck out of those slots. Unit should be free at this point.4. Loosen the nuts on the new unit, removing the nut on the bolt that is by itself. Drop the compressor into the slots in the frame. Tighten the two back nuts. Load your socket with the new nut for the through-the-frame bolt, being careful not to lose the nut inside the frame rail. Tighten all three.5. Clip the power/electronic plug in6. Connect the air lines.7. Mount the air intake hose/air box assembly on the bracket on the fuel tank neck.8. Start the truck, check for error messages on the dash. (I didn’t have any before my replacement, if you do, and they are still there after the repair, you may need to drive around a little to let it clear itself, or you may not have clipped the power/electronic plug in properly.)All in all, the new compressor from Dorman is much quieter than the factory unit, it doesn't run nearly as often as it used to (and for much less time when it does), and most importantly, it resolved my low pressure in the right side shock issue. My Avalanche's ride has noticeably improved since.

Easy installation, perfect replacement for 2010 Escalade.

R. · January 5, 2025

An excellent replacement for GM vehicles with air suspension systems that require a reliable air supply, with advanced thermal protection, which prevent it from continuously pumping air into a leaky air suspension, that can potentially cause the compressor to burn out from excessive heat, it would be wise to make sure your air shocks does not have a leak before doing this replacement.This compressor does an impressive job of keeping air pressure at optimal levels, which is crucial for maintaining the performance and comfort of your vehicle’s suspension system, compared to OEM compressors, the Dorman 949-099 offers a more cost-effective solution without sacrificing quality or performance, making it an ideal choice for DIYers.It has been running reliably for my air suspensions for over 2 years, it is super quiet, highly reliable and an affordable option for anyone needing a replacement, definitely worth considering.

UAE

E.a.C. · November 23, 2021

WORK AND IN GOOD CONDITION

Buy this

K.G. · May 31, 2019

This product is a direct replacement for my 2010 Escalade. Super easy to install - just make sure you do not remove the nuts on the mounting bolts all the way when removing the old one or installing the new one. Lots of YouTube videos on this. Product worked right away with the new OEM air shocks I installed. Product quality is better than OEM since this new 099 product has a thermal switch that shuts itself off if it gets too hot, like if it is trying to hard to pump a worn and leaky shock. To be on the safe side, make sure that you jack up the rear of the vehicle with a floor jack, mounting it under the differential, to relieve pressure on the shocks when first filling them up. I never see anyone doing this on youtube videos, but it is cheap insurance to prevent undue wear on the shocks and compressor at first start up.Anyway, a great product. Dorman customer service was excellent.

Well made replacement part

P.V. · September 3, 2025

high quality replacement for expensive GM part. Fit perfect and came with wiring adaptor too.

Works well

K. · June 5, 2019

Good product. Fit the suburban no problem. Fairly easy to install